Vin-Cenzo's

Tucked along Liverpool Street, this Darlinghurst haunt serves regional Italian cooking across a maze of domestic-scale dining rooms. It feels like an evening at nonna’s table, dialled in with conversational acoustics where you never have to raise your voice. Diners point to the veal tongue and scamorza sandwich to start, alongside crisp fried eggplant glazed in tomato jam and salted ricotta. The kitchen hits its stride with handmade mortadella agnolotti floating in warm brodo, followed by whole flounder with vongole and crisp chips tossed in rosemary salt. Glasses of crisp Riesling keep pace right through to a palate-cleansing coffee granita crowned with mascarpone.